I'm sitting on a shady terrace, drinking mint tea, listening to the music of village life and enjoying the breeze. I'm in the Dana Nature Reserve in the mountains of eastern Jordan. Last time I was here it was in December and on the day we went to Petra it snowed - a raging blizzard with howling winds.
We'd hired a car but couldn't see the front of the bonnet for snow and low cloud. When we finally arrived in Dana, cold and weary, we were given the traditional hospitable Bedouin welcome. Later, huddled around the fire, the locals said: "Come back when the weather's good: you can sleep out under the stars." I realised I'd got to 49 and had never slept out under the stars. So I've come back.